Dining Out

Brazilian Steakhouse - Sabor enters the fray

By Jeff Beutner. Published June 1, 2006 at www.shepherd-express.com.

Given the crowded competition of high-end steakhouses in downtown Milwaukee, one can't help but ask: Can the city support another contender?

Last year saw the opening of Yanni's and Carnevor, and even Bacchus converted its menu to a red-meat format. That's in addition to Mo's, Butch's Clock Steakhouse and the Milwaukee ChopHouse. It's a crowded field to be sure, but early indications show that the latest, Sabor, is a worthy challenger.

Sabor opened in early May in the brew pub formerly occupied by Stout Bros. This newest steakhouse differs from the competition in that it's a Brazilian churrascaria, a type of restaurant typically found in cities like New York or Miami, where there are large South American populations. It's a daring move for a Milwaukee restaurant, but locals seem fond of the concept--especially the part about being all-you-can-eat.

Diners enter through a contemporary bar, walking past a wine room and a salad bar before reaching the main dining room. The wine room holds more than 2,000 bottles, strong on cabernets and syrahs. The salad bar is far from the Old Country Buffet variety, constructed from granite with vivid, abstract artwork. The only overtly Brazilian aspect is the parade of servers dressed as gauchos serving spits of assorted grilled meats.

The atmosphere and abundant food do not come cheap. Dinner with meat is $42.50. The first course--salad bar, soup and side dishes--can be ordered by itself for $32.50. But you get what you pay for, as the salad bar offers a variety of tasty choices. There are jumbo shrimp over a bed of couscous, marinated carrots and asparagus spears, hearts of palm, artichoke hearts, wild mushrooms, many different kinds of cheese--and the list goes on. One favorite is thin slices of prosciutto wrapped around arugula leaves. Jamon crudo, air-cured ham that is popular in Spanish-speaking South America, can be very similar to prosciutto. The soups are fine, the cream of asparagus a summery delight. Side dishes include simple white rice, buttery mashed potatoes, black beans with pork, and plenty of other tasty options.

Unlike many competing steakhouses, the choices for the first course make this a top destination for vegetarians. Those opting for meat will find a coaster near their copper plate. Turning it green-side-up will cue the gauchos to arrive. Skewers of chicken, pork, lamb and beef will arrive soon thereafter. There is so much to choose from. Cordeiro is the Portuguese name for lamb, served here either as slices from a succulent leg or as small chops that are prepared well-done. The filet mignon, available on the rarer side, shows just how good this kitchen can be. Picanha is tender sirloin with flavors enhanced by sea salt and garlic. The linguica is mild, roasted sausage; it's good, but could be a tough sell in a city known for its sausage options. If this is not enough to choose from, consider the fraldinha (bottom sirloin), frango (chicken), costela de porco (baby back pork ribs), alcatra (top sirloin) and lombo (pork loin). Given the sheer number of choices, Sabor is worth several visits.

Like its competitors, Sabor offers all the perks of high-end dining, from valet parking to great service. Recently Sabor has begun serving lunch. The full service with meat is $28.50 while the first course drops to a mere $14.50. It's not cheap, but this is probably the best salad bar in town and worth every cent. Though red meat is an increasingly crowded format, it looks like Sabor, with its Brazilian charm, is ready to take on all challengers.